
John William Edy and William Fearnside traveled to Southern Norway around the summer and fall of 1800. When Edy arrived in Drammen, it was like arriving in an international city where they could shop for Chinese porcelain and speak English with most people. But it was also a city where people were annoyingly superstitious.
The two Britons traveled on assignment from a publisher in London who wanted pictures and stories from the exotic country that the British were thirsting to know more about. The publisher wanted both travelogues and fresh illustrations, that is, watercolors, drawings, sketches and paintings.
John William Edy also made some interesting observations about Drammen and the people of Drammen in 1800. He was a painter and used to observing. He had a sharp eye, and there was no doubt that he liked Drammen and the people of Drammen.
He told of good opportunities for shopping, with shops that carried goods from all over the world. This also included luxury goods, such as Chinese porcelain, jewelry and silk, transported to the city by large merchant ships. They arrived at Drammen Harbor every day in the summer.
Edy met friendly people who treated their animals well. The horses were well-fed and well-groomed and in excellent condition, he wrote. Indeed, he had hardly seen more well-kept horses that received daily care and first-class feed from skilled stable boys. He also noticed that there were surprisingly many horses in the street scene. Horses were almost everyone’s property, which many could afford. Some even had several horses that were in daily use, which must have been due to great prosperity among many.
The Briton also noticed that many had pets that they took good care of. Dogs did not walk loose in the streets, but were on leashes with «spiked collars». He also noticed that many kept cats that kept mice and rats away from flour and sugar and other food in the breweries and food stalls. Many of the cats had bluish fur. It was a breed of cat he had never seen before, a breed that did not exist back home in England. Blue-colored cats are uncommon even today, but may have been Russian blue or Korat, a breed from the East that was widely used as ship’s cats because they also ate insects and beetles, not just mice and rats.
Edy thought Drammen was a beautiful city with exceptionally beautiful nature that they would very much like to visit. They wanted to go for walks in the fields and experience the beautiful nature. But there they got a big surprise, because they were strongly advised against this.
There was no telling what dangers lurked along the paths on both sides of Drammensmarka. He was especially warned against wolves, bears and foxes, but there were also other dangers lurking. Superstition was very common among Norwegians at that time, and there were not a few shepherd girls and shepherd boys who came home in the autumn and could tell of encounters with both underground beings and other ghosts. Parents warned their children about both «huldra» and «nøkken», and far into the field one could encounter both giants and trolls who hunted for the blood of Christian men.

The English must have been surprised by this medieval superstition that can also be found in English writers back in the 17th century, but in the summer of 1800!? However, they gave up the idea of trips to the fields, and instead walked around the city and spoke English to people they met. They also went down to the Drammen river and chatted with the fishermen who said that they caught something like 1200 large, beautiful salmon during the season.
This made the English gasp. They were also impressed that even fishermen who had never been to school could speak English so well. Drammen was an international city, and in the 17th and 18th centuries there were both English inns and a colony of around a hundred British who lived more or less permanently in the city. The British were also impressed by the houses, which were generally spacious. The same was true of the churches, Edy wrote, and he noticed that even the largest sailing ships could dock at Strømsø.
They became friends with several of the Drammen residents they spoke to. He found the Drammen residents to be both welcoming, inclusive and curious. They were easy to like, and he made several friends who could read and write and with whom they exchanged letters after they left the city.
This is probably also the explanation for Edy’s somewhat strange sketch of Drammen. It probably had something to do with the fact that the book Edy was writing was not published until many years after the English left the city, and after Drammen got its first city bridge in 1812.
Edy and Fearnside came to Norway in July 1800 and returned home in September of the same year. It was an expensive journey for the publisher. The magnificent book about Norway was such an expensive publication for the publisher that it took a full 20 years before it was published. The painting that Edy made of Drammen is nevertheless interesting. Afterwards, perhaps through letters from pen pals in Drammen, Edy learned about this new bridge, but he placed it wrongly. He did not paint the city bridge between Bragernes and Strømsø, but the Holmen Bridge between Holmen and Bragernes. It was not built until 1964, 164 years after the English left Drammen.
In the painting we can still see a Drammen that is easy to recognize. The ships moored at the quay, Bragernes and Strømsø, timber and planks waiting to be loaded aboard. We see a prosperous, international trading city, with well-heeled timber barons and trading houses. But also inns and taverns where tired sailors from many countries drowned their sorrows.
